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organic amendments

Coffee Grounds for Gardens

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The season of falling leaves is nearly upon us, which means it might also be the season for collecting used coffee grounds from nearby coffee shops. The grounds combine well with raked-up leaves in a compost pile to create compost for your next-year garden.

Used coffee grounds can also be mixed directly into the garden soil, as a soil amendment, but then the soil-microbes need a few weeks to start breaking those grounds down before anything is planted in the area.

An explanation is in the video below (video – for a change of pace!). If you can’t see the video on this webpage, you can find it here on YouTube.

 

The information from Oregon State University is linked here.

Hoping that all your gardens are growing well!

Planting Begins for My Fall Garden

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The first seeds in the ground for my fall garden are two kinds of carrots and a winter radish. I also planted one last round of basil, so there will be more pesto in my freezer to use in wintertime meals.

First seeds planted for my fall garden, plus one last summer herb.
First seeds planted for my fall garden, plus one last summer herb. PHOTO/Amygwh

This year’s carrots: ‘Bolero’ and ‘Short Stuff’

The two varieties, ‘Bolero’ and ‘Short Stuff’, are shorter carrots that will do well in the clay soil of my in-ground garden.

‘Short stuff’ is also recommended as a good choice for container plantings. The fully-mature carrots will be only about 4-inches long, but wide at the top.

‘Bolero’ will be longer, closer to 6-inches at harvest, but slender all the way down.

I amended the soil by adding a nearly-full bucket (5-gallon size) of yard compost to the garden bed before planting. This addition will loosen the soil and improve the odds that the carrots will grow as they should.

The seedlings have not yet come up, but when they do, they will get a dose of the kind of fish emulsion fertilizer that promotes root growth (higher phosphorus than nitrogen).

You may be wondering why I already planted seeds for carrots, in mid-August. The reason is that crops mature more slowly in fall than in spring. If I want to harvest carrots before mid-December, they need to be in the ground, in my garden, now. (For more details, read my book.)

The first winter radishes

‘Watermelon’ winter radish seeds also are in the garden. The current packet says they take 60 days to reach maturity, but older packets from other seed companies have claimed 70-days, which is closer to the speed they grew in my garden. I decided to use 70-days as my working number to determine the planting date, as a result.

Most of the winter radishes will only make good bulbs in fall, in the time of shortening day length. I don’t know why. Some plants are just like that.

That means, though, that this is a crop that can ONLY be had from a fall garden. If anyone in your family loves radishes (a rare thing, I know), plant these soon!

Heat sink surprise

Raised bed planted with beet seedlings and young onions, in mid-August, in Chicago.
Raised bed with beet seedlings and young onions, in mid-August, in Chicago. PHOTO/Amygwh

When I was in Chicago last week, I noticed that many vegetable gardens already contained plenty of cool-season seedlings. Considering how much further north Chicago is from here, it made sense that fall gardening would already be well-underway.

However, when I looked up its hardiness zone, I was surprised. Chicago is in plant hardiness zone 6a, according to the newer USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. The plant hardiness zone where I live, north of Atlanta, is 7b. That difference in hardiness zones, between Chicago and north-metro-Atlanta, is less than I expected.

Most of area around Chicago (all the northern half of Illinois) is in plant hardiness zone 5, according to the USDA map. That seems more reasonable than 6a. Chicago, which is a large city containing a lot of concrete, must be the same kind of heat-sink that Atlanta is (most of Atlanta is in zone 8a). That could account for part of the difference. Lake Michigan could account for the rest, since enormous bodies of water also help keep nearby air temperatures more moderate.

Update on the ‘Astia’ zucchini

Flower buds forming on young 'Astia' zucchini plant.
Flower bud on young ‘Astia’ zucchini plant, in the “v” between two stems (main stem and leaf petiole). 

The ‘Astia’ zucchini that is growing in my half-barrel planter is still alive. There are no signs yet of leaf-mildew-diseases, which is good news. The other good news is that, even though the seedlings have only been up for a couple of weeks, I can see the buds of flowers forming on the plants.

These flower buds will keep growing, until the flower buds open. Some flowers will be “girls”, which are the ones that make the zucchini that we eat. Some flowers will be ‘boys’. After the boys have done their job of pollinating the girls, I plan to harvest those boy flowers to use in cooking.

While in Italy over the summer, Joe and I enjoyed fried squash blossoms at the Sax Wine Bar in Montepulciano. We are going to make those ourselves, since the good ladies at Sax Wine Bar are in Italy and we are not.

 

Potassium Sources for an Organic Garden

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Potassium is one of the Big Three nutrients that plants need in large amounts (the other two are nitrogen and phosphorous). These are the essential nutrients that are represented by three numbers, such as 5-10-15, on bags of chemical fertilizers.

If you’ve had the soil of your organic garden tested and learned that it is very low in potassium, you may be looking for ways to boost the amount of this essential plant nutrient in your organic garden.

The good news? There are several good sources for potassium available for organic gardens.

Greensand – This is a mined product, made from natural deposits of a marine sediment called glauconite. It is smashed into very small bits (making it into “sand”) for you to mix into your soil. The potassium content can vary between brands. You will need to read the label of your bag to know how much potassium (the percentage) is in there.

Greensand is a potassium source for organic gardens.
Greensand is a potassium source for organic gardens.

Greensand does not contain any nitrogen; some brands may contain a tiny bit of phosphorus, but not enough to really count if your garden needs phosphorus, too. The potassium is released SLOWLY, so if your garden’s need is dire, you might want to use a faster-release potassium source along with the greensand.

When I make my own organic potting mix, I add a little greensand (about a half cup for a 6-gallon batch of potting mix). McGee and Stuckey, in their book The Bountiful Container, also recommend adding a bit of greensand to organic potting mixes.

Wood Ashes – This is a fast-release and FREE source of potassium for home gardens. Wood ashes may be as much as 3-7% potassium! This is similar to the percentage in many bags of greensand (my current bag has less), making wood ashes an option to consider for gardens that need a lot of potassium Right Now. The potential drawback to this organic potassium source is that it will raise the pH of your garden’s soil.

Did you have the soil from your organic garden tested this year? If you did, you will have a record of the soil pH, which is how acidic or basic it is. A pH number below 7 is acidic. A pH number higher than 7 is basic. Most garden vegetable plants will be more productive when grown in soil that is in the 6-7 pH range (slightly acidic). If your soil pH is already in that desired range — or higher — then wood ashes are not a good potassium choice for your garden.

Sul-Po-Mag – This is another mined source of potassium, available to gardeners as bags of pulverized rock. The name Sul-Po-Mag is shorthand for the longer name of Sulfate of Potash Magnesia. This has a very high percentage of potassium, as much as 22%. Even though it is from rocks, it is considered a fast-release source. If your organic garden needs a lot of potassium right away, and the pH is high enough that wood ashes are not a good choice, then this may be what you want. Sul-Po-Mag also provides sulfur, magnesium, and some micronutrients. This product is generally pH-neutral, meaning that it will not swing your soil’s pH in either direction.

Locally, we have used Sul-Po-Mag when mixing up batches of organic fertilizer for community gardens that have a soil-pH higher than 7.

Kelp Meal – This is a slower-release source of potassium. It is not a concentrated source (about 1% potassium), but it also provides nitrogen, phosphorus, and a host of essential micronutrients that can improve the nutrient state of poor soils. If you are working with native soil, in an in-ground garden in the Southern US, and your organic garden is fairly new, you may want to choose kelp meal as your potassium source. In my area, the clay soils are all worn-out (decades of cotton fields) or washed-out (erosion from high rainfall), and benefit greatly from a dose of kelp meal.

How much of any of these should you use? If you have a report from a soil lab, the recommendation it offers for a chemical fertilizer can be converted to organic amendments, if you are reasonably good at math. The linked UGA publication includes the equations to use. I have done these conversions for our local community gardens.

An alternative is that you mix up a batch of organic “10-10-10” (or another listed formula), following the recipe in the above-linked UGA publication about converting to organic amendments. The recipes on the last page of the document list options for the nitrogen source (pick one from the list), options for the phosphorus source (pick one), and options for the potassium source (pick one).